Unfortunately the way you explained thing leads me to believe that the above is not what you are dealing with. Tony is right to advise you to use the proper tools to test for dead and. Notice the black wire is the only wire that we are controlling through the 2 way switch. Ideally the old switch is still there so you can wire the new one up the same way as the old one. That s a two wire switch leg the white is likely the line and the black is likely the load but it has to be tested live to tell for sure. Put a piece of tape on each wire with a number on it. Switches are never connected between a black wire and a neutral wire. So the wires connected to the switch are black and the two bundles of wires in the back are white. This is used to control 2 lights individually. The correct configuration should be black power in to switch black power to light to other side of switch.
Put a piece of tape on each wire with a number on it. In your existing switch you have common l1 and l2 your new one has only l1 and l2 this is because it is a 2 gang 1 way switch. So the wires connected to the switch are black and the two bundles of wires in the back are white. You have an incoming hot wire black going to one screw it does not matter if you use the brass or silver screw on the side of the 2 way switch and a black wire from the other screw on the 2 way switch going to the load light ceiling fan etc. You should actually be connecting two black wires to the switch. The switch you have in your photo is a 2 gang 2 way light switch. The two black wires one is power input the other is switched power output is used to control a light fixture or outlet. The correct configuration should be black power in to switch black power to light to other side of switch. The whites neutrals should be connected together. Ideally the old switch is still there so you can wire the new one up the same way as the old one.
This is used to control 2 lights individually. Switches are never connected between a black wire and a neutral wire. There is no neutral in this setup as it s in a junction box somewhere likely in the light source. Notice the black wire is the only wire that we are controlling through the 2 way switch. So the wires connected to the switch are black and the two bundles of wires in the back are white. Tony is right to advise you to use the proper tools to test for dead and. Ideally the old switch is still there so you can wire the new one up the same way as the old one. If your smart switch needs a neutral this setup will not work. This type of switch has two brass screws usually on the bottom and a copper or black screw on the top left. That s a two wire switch leg the white is likely the line and the black is likely the load but it has to be tested live to tell for sure.
The switch you have in your photo is a 2 gang 2 way light switch. You have an incoming hot wire black going to one screw it does not matter if you use the brass or silver screw on the side of the 2 way switch and a black wire from the other screw on the 2 way switch going to the load light ceiling fan etc. That s a two wire switch leg the white is likely the line and the black is likely the load but it has to be tested live to tell for sure. Put a piece of tape on each wire with a number on it. It all matches the diagram except for the black wire on the bottom that wire is also bundled to the set of two white wires on the bottom. So the wires connected to the switch are black and the two bundles of wires in the back are white. In your existing switch you have common l1 and l2 your new one has only l1 and l2 this is because it is a 2 gang 1 way switch. Switches are never connected between a black wire and a neutral wire. The correct configuration should be black power in to switch black power to light to other side of switch. The whites neutrals should be connected together.
Put a piece of tape with the same number on each terminal. In your existing switch you have common l1 and l2 your new one has only l1 and l2 this is because it is a 2 gang 1 way switch. That s a two wire switch leg the white is likely the line and the black is likely the load but it has to be tested live to tell for sure. It all matches the diagram except for the black wire on the bottom that wire is also bundled to the set of two white wires on the bottom. Ideally the old switch is still there so you can wire the new one up the same way as the old one. The correct configuration should be black power in to switch black power to light to other side of switch. Notice the black wire is the only wire that we are controlling through the 2 way switch. You have an incoming hot wire black going to one screw it does not matter if you use the brass or silver screw on the side of the 2 way switch and a black wire from the other screw on the 2 way switch going to the load light ceiling fan etc. Unfortunately the way you explained thing leads me to believe that the above is not what you are dealing with. Put the reds into l1 and the blacks into l2 but make sure you keep the right red with the right black if the switch works upside down the swap over the relevant red and black.
